Takeout comes home: Thai rice salad

In Seattle, it seems like there’s a Thai place on every corner, and we’re spoiled rotten when it comes to takeout options. Seriously, what’s better than curling up on the couch with a paper carton of pad thai and the latest issue of The New Yorker (or whatever)? But sometimes Thomas and I feel ambitious, and in those moments we make some truly delightful Thai food—no small feat with Krittika Thai just a phone call away.

042This rice dish gets some help from an unexpected ingredient: ketchup. Which is funny, because I recently decided I don’t have much fondness for ketchup. It’s too sweet, for one, and my taste leans toward spicy mustard, even with fries. But the recipe, from the Essential New York Times Cookbook, suggests using ketchup in place of tamarind, a basic ingredient in many cuisines but, sadly, absent from the local grocery chain. So it was ketchup or nothing.

047Then I remembered that I’ve seen ketchup listed as an ingredient for pad thai, and I felt comforted, because even though it still seemed odd, at least other people were being crazy with me. The rest of the recipe isn’t so questionable; you cook some rice, scramble a couple of eggs, cook a little chicken and shrimp (or tofu), and whisk together a dressing. And maybe you aren’t as weirded out as I am about using ketchup in a stir-fry.

068But then I took a bite, and became a fan. The dominant flavor is lime juice—perfect for lime lovers—and there’s another, quieter flavor there, something delicious that must be the ketchup’s doing. Or more likely, it’s the mix of the various ingredients in the dressing that makes this dish addictive. I have not made the tamarind version, but I don’t doubt it would be good too. There’s certainly plenty of room for substitutions: cashews for peanuts, tofu for chicken and shrimp, or noodles for rice.

If you’re looking to expand your skills in cooking Thai dishes, this is a good place to start. That’s not to say there won’t be times when you’ll be more excited about having dinner delivered. But it’s always nice to have the option of creating something wonderful in your own kitchen.

Thai Rice Salad
Adapted from The Essential New York Times Cookbook

2 cups Jasmine brown rice
5 tablespoons olive oil
2 eggs, lightly beaten
4 cloves garlic, minced
8-10 medium-sized frozen shrimp, defrosted
¼ pound chicken breast, chopped
4 scallions, chopped
2 tablespoons fish sauce
1 tablespoon plus 1 ½ teaspoons ketchup or tamarind (if using tamarind, add 2 teaspoons sugar)
2 tablespoons lime juice, fresh or bottled
¼ cup chopped peanuts or cashews
¼ cup chopped cilantro (or more, to taste)

  1. Bring 6 cups water to boil in a medium-sized pot. Add rice and reduce heat to medium. Let simmer until rice is cooked and all of the water is absorbed. Transfer rice to a large salad or serving bowl.
  2. In a large wok or skillet, heat 2 tablespoons olive oil. Add the beaten eggs and stir frequently until cooked. Cut any large pieces of egg into smaller pieces. Place cooked egg in the bowl with the rice.
  3. Increase the heat to medium-high and add remaining 3 tablespoons of oil to the wok. Add the chicken and sauté, stirring often, until cooked. Add the garlic and shrimp, stirring often, until the shrimp is warmed through (this shouldn’t take long).  Add the scallions and stir-fry for 3 minutes. Transfer chicken and shrimp mixture to the bowl with the rice and egg. Leave the wok on the burner and the burner on.
  4. In a small bowl, combine the fish sauce, ketchup, lime juice, and ¼ cup water. Transfer this mixture to the wok and allow it to heat through (this should happen quickly). Pour the warm dressing over the salad, stirring well to coat. Stir in peanuts and cilantro.

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