When I first made this dish, I was a sophomore in college, a voracious reader of the weekly New York Times dining pages. In that newspaper cooking school, I found recipes to try and taste and yes, even subject upon my friends, family, and myself. This one I made on the stove at Thomas’s house, in the midst of a party, as you do.
I remember not wanting to put a whole chile into the dish and—I don’t know what inspired this incongruous swap—using premade pico de gallo salsa instead. I didn’t bake the rice and beans in a pot like the recipe said to, instead cooking it on the stove like any normal pot of rice. People came by and took spoonfuls straight from the cooking pot, so apparently it was a hit. But I didn’t make it again (college allowed little time for repeat dishes, barely enough time to squeeze in new ones) until recently, as I mined my recipe notebooks for what’s-old-is-new recipe inspiration.
I thought this time I could try baking the dish in the oven. Along the way I fiddled with amounts, didn’t use parboiled rice, and overall expressed my general disregard for directions that don’t make sense to me (I love cooking rules until they are pedantic, lack logic, and/or are a waste of time). But if one is going to make these changes and disregard the writing on the page, then they must be willing to accept the consequences, which for me were that nothing happened when I tried to bake this dish in the oven. After half an hour, and then more, the rice did not cook, the liquid did not evaporate. It was as if no time had passed at all. So, back to the stovetop it went.
My 20-year-old self’s instincts had proved correct; not only was cooking this on the stove the better option for me, but the use of salsa really makes this dish. It elevates ordinary rice and beans with a little spice and lots of tomatoes. An entire cup of cilantro leaves goes in, perfect for cilantro fans like me (but you could easily leave it out if you’re not part of that fandom). The coconut milk helps too, adding a luxurious element. Coconut anything is so trendy right now, but lest you think I’m pandering to the coconut-buying masses, remember I was making this dish before it was cool.
There’s something nice about cooking from these notebooks, smiling knowingly from this end of my twenties to that time when I knew less about cooking but still dove in—and sometimes knew the best way to do something all along.
Jamaican Beans and Rice
Adapted from The New York Times
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 onion, diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon chili powder
1 bell pepper, diced
1 15 ounce can kidney beans, drained and rinsed
1 cup brown rice
1 13 ounce can coconut milk, stirred well
2 1/4 cups water
Salt and pepper to taste
1 cup chopped cilantro leaves
1 cup prepared salsa (I prefer pico de gallo style)
- Heat olive oil in a medium-sized pot over medium heat. Add onion, garlic, and chili powder, and cook until onions are just starting to brown, stirring occasionally. Add the bell pepper and cook for 3 minutes, stirring often.
- Add the beans, rice, coconut milk, water, and salt and pepper.
- Bring the mixture to a boil, then reduce heat to medium. Let simmer until the liquid is almost completely absorbed (I like to leave just a little of the liquid for a slightly soupy texture). Stir in the cilantro and salsa before serving.
The Food Beat 