Ordinary Becomes Excellent: Jamaican Beans and Rice

When I first made this dish, I was a sophomore in college, a voracious reader of the weekly New York Times dining pages. In that newspaper cooking school, I found recipes to try and taste and yes, even subject upon my friends, family, and myself. This one I made on the stove at Thomas’s house, in the midst of a party, as you do.

I remember not wanting to put a whole chile into the dish and—I don’t know what inspired this incongruous swap—using premade pico de gallo salsa instead. I didn’t bake the rice and beans in a pot like the recipe said to, instead cooking it on the stove like any normal pot of rice. People came by and took spoonfuls straight from the cooking pot, so apparently it was a hit. But I didn’t make it again (college allowed little time for repeat dishes, barely enough time to squeeze in new ones) until recently, as I mined my recipe notebooks for what’s-old-is-new recipe inspiration.

I thought this time I could try baking the dish in the oven. Along the way I fiddled with amounts, didn’t use parboiled rice, and overall expressed my general disregard for directions that don’t make sense to me (I love cooking rules until they are pedantic, lack logic, and/or are a waste of time). But if one is going to make these changes and disregard the writing on the page, then they must be willing to accept the consequences, which for me were that nothing happened when I tried to bake this dish in the oven. After half an hour, and then more, the rice did not cook, the liquid did not evaporate. It was as if no time had passed at all. So, back to the stovetop it went.

My 20-year-old self’s instincts had proved correct; not only was cooking this on the stove the better option for me, but the use of salsa really makes this dish. It elevates ordinary rice and beans with a little spice and lots of tomatoes. An entire cup of cilantro leaves goes in, perfect for cilantro fans like me (but you could easily leave it out if you’re not part of that fandom). The coconut milk helps too, adding a luxurious element. Coconut anything is so trendy right now, but lest you think I’m pandering to the coconut-buying masses, remember I was making this dish before it was cool.

There’s something nice about cooking from these notebooks, smiling knowingly from this end of my twenties to that time when I knew less about cooking but still dove in—and sometimes knew the best way to do something all along.

Jamaican Beans and Rice
Adapted from The New York Times

1 tablespoon olive oil
1 onion, diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon chili powder
1 bell pepper, diced
1 15 ounce can kidney beans, drained and rinsed
1 cup brown rice
1 13 ounce can coconut milk, stirred well
2 1/4 cups water
Salt and pepper to taste
1 cup chopped cilantro leaves
1 cup prepared salsa (I prefer pico de gallo style)

1. Heat olive oil in a medium-sized pot over medium heat. Add onion, garlic, and chili powder, and cook until onions are just starting to brown, stirring occasionally. Add the bell pepper and cook for 3 minutes, stirring often.
2. Add the beans, rice, coconut milk, water, and salt and pepper.
3. Bring the mixture to a boil, then reduce heat to medium. Let simmer until the liquid is almost completely absorbed (I like to leave just a little of the liquid for a slightly soupy texture). Stir in the cilantro and salsa before serving.

The right spice: Potato and chickpea curry

When it comes to spicy food, I’m not the wimpiest—but I’m no champion, either. After traveling to India in 2007, I returned with a better tolerance for spice than ever before (that’s what happens when you eat spicy food all the time, including the occasional dish of hot chilies). But back in America, where five-star spice seems reserved for the brave, my taste buds reverted to their former spice phobia. Today, I don’t mind a little spicy kick in my food, but I don’t order above one star.

This hasn’t stopped me from making dishes from traditionally spicy cuisines, however. I just use the chili powder with a light hand, buy mild curry powder, and often skip fresh chilies altogether. Using spices can be precarious, as just a little extra can change an entire dish (and render it inedible, for the spice-shy). So I played it safe with this potato and chickpea curry, which doesn’t call for any spice, unless you’re using spicy curry powder.  This curry is perfect for people who like Indian food but want to avoid wandering too far down the spice route—and can’t spend a few months in India training their taste buds.

This recipe combines elements of a North Indian curry (potatoes) with that of the South (coconut milk). It’s the best of both worlds: potatoes are my favorite vegetable to have in a curry, for their ability to absorb any sauce and spice; coconut milk adds a subtle richness. The original recipe called this curry a stew, but so much of the liquid evaporates in the cooking that it’s more like a proper curry, with a sauce rather than a broth (the original recipe also called for cauliflower, not potatoes; many vegetables can be used in its place, but be sure to adjust the cooking time).

If you are a fan of spicy food, you can adjust this recipe by adding chili powder or diced chilies to taste, or by using spicy curry powder. And while this curry does quite well as a vegetarian meal, chicken or white fish wouldn’t be unwelcome. If you’ve never made a curry before, this is the best introduction: simple, delicious, and endlessly adjustable. If you’ve tried a thousand curries, this one is a nice break from more complicated recipes.

While the spice level might not match anything I had in an Indian household, here at home in Seattle, this curry feels right for my taste. Next time, I might add a bit more spice, and then some more after that. I may never reach five stars, but that’s no reason not to be brave.

Potato and Chickpea Curry
Adapted from Bon Appetit

2 tablespoons olive or vegetable oil
2 ½ cups diced onions (about 2 large onions)
5 teaspoons curry powder
6 cups diced potatoes (about 3 medium)
2 15-ounce cans chickpeas, drained and rinsed
2 15 -ounce cans diced tomatoes, undrained
1 14-ounce can coconut milk
Chopped fresh cilantro, to taste

1. In a large pot, heat oil over high heat. Add onions and sauté until lightly browned, about 8 minutes. Add curry powder, stirring well to coat the onions. Add potatoes and chickpeas; stir for 1 minute.
2. Add tomatoes and their liquid, and coconut milk. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and cover curry. Let simmer, stirring occasionally, until potatoes are tender, about 25 minutes. Allow to cool for five minutes, then stir in cilantro and serve.