I don’t like to light my food on fire. I don’t care if it’s crepes suzette, or any number of traditional flambéed dishes. I think it’s an odd—and potentially dangerous—practice. Who decided that dousing your food in liquor and lighting it was a good idea? While I ponder the strangeness of our species’ cooking practices, let me share this brilliant recipe that, despite being given the option, I did not choose to ignite.
Here we are, in the cold of almost-winter, not a fresh tomato in sight (not one worth eating, anyways). Luckily, canned tomatoes step in when we need them, in this case to surround shrimp and feta in a cozy, simple dish that is perfect for those holiday-season nights when you’re burned out on cooking. I didn’t expect the dish to turn out quite so soupy, but I was actually so pleased that it did. It became a special tomato soup, with flavors cranked way past any tomato soup I’ve had before (but let’s face it, I mostly eat the stuff from a can. Sssh, don’t tell anyone).
The recipe headnote mentioned fire, but I thought Amanda Hesser was just referring to the pepper flakes. Maybe she was, but the final step in the recipe has you pour in ouzo, an anise-flavored liqueur from Greece. And then: “if desired, ignite it.” Nope, definitely not desired. First, there’s the aforementioned lack of interest in seeing my food in flames. Second, is ouzo something you can find at a local grocery chain? If not, it didn’t seem worth tracking down, and if I did get it, I’d probably end up with more than I needed, desperately trying to pawn it off on unsuspecting houseguests.
Luckily, this dish doesn’t need the liqueur at all. It’s hard to believe such intensely good flavors come from such a basic set of ingredients. The three main ingredients—shrimp, feta, tomatoes—go fantastically together, but it’s the oregano and red pepper flakes that elevate the dish, adding herbal depth and warm spice. There’s the unlikely addition of clam juice, but just go with it; I’ve found it essential in seafood stew. Next time I make this, I’ll probably stir in cooked brown rice, or serve it on the side, so I can stretch this goodness over multiple meals.
Wherever the holidays find you, in whatever emotional state, I wish you some quiet moments to give balance to the busyness. In such moments, dishes such as this one provide a kind of solace, or perhaps just a preamble to a big celebration. I wish us all joy wherever we can find it.
Shrimp with Feta and Tomatoes
Adapted from The Essential New York Times Cookbook
1 cup brown rice (optional)
¼ cup olive oil
2 large cloves of garlic, minced
1 28-ounce can diced tomatoes, drained
¼ cup clam juice
1 teaspoon dried oregano
¼ – ½ teaspoon red pepper flakes, to taste
Salt and pepper, to taste
1 pound cooked shrimp, tails removed
1 cup crumbled feta cheese
- If serving with rice: Combine rice and 3 cups water in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to medium and let simmer until the rice is tender and all of the water is absorbed.
- Heat oven to 350 degrees. In a large, oven-proof skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the garlic, stirring often until lightly browned. Add the tomatoes and let simmer for 3 minutes, stirring often.
- Stir in the clam juice, oregano, pepper flakes (use the larger amount if you want it spicy, the smaller for mild), and salt and pepper to taste. Stir in the shrimp until well combined. Sprinkle the feta evenly on top.
- Transfer the skillet to the oven. Bake for 10 minutes or until bubbling.
The Food Beat 