Tacos epitomize summer, recalling boardwalks and food trucks, fresh corn and tomatoes, and handheld snacks perfect for a picnic at the beach. It’s a food that embodies a do-it-yourself principle, something that appeals to everyone at those summer potlucks.
Leave it to me to make tacos on a chilly October night, when the sun had been down for hours and no one in their right mind would think of going to the beach.
But in my search for food with family appeal (my family, specifically) that didn’t take hours out of my midweek evening, I landed on this taco recipe, from the Vegetarian Times. At first, I felt a tinge of out-of-season guilt at the thought of using corn at a time of year when it’s all but gone. Then I noticed that the recipe called for frozen corn, which somehow made me feel better. Freezing is a bit like preserving, and that’s all the rage these days! Guilt assuaged, I went through my usual routine of substitutions, replacing spinach with lettuce (for Kyle), jarred bell peppers with fresh (better texture and flavor), and feta with Monterey Jack (easier to find at Bainbridge’s Safeway, where our groceries come from). Finally, because the fresh cilantro miraculously goes unused too often, I opted for dried. This turned out to be a good choice, as it blended well with the other spices mixed with the corn.
As I assembled the ingredients, I ran into a roadblock right away: no black beans in the pantry. I shuffled through various oils, pastas, and sauces before finding a can of white kidney beans. They would have to suffice. I blended them with salsa, cumin, and garlic, then mashed them after a few minutes of cooking. Sometimes, not all beans are interchangeable, but this time, it seemed that all beans are beans.
Next came the corn, from a can in this iteration. It went into the skillet with pepper, chili powder (not cayenne, and better for it, I think), and more cumin. I cooked the corn on medium-high for 5 minutes, then reduced the heat to medium-low for the remaining 5; otherwise, it would have burned. The corn achieved a crisp sweetness, accented by smoky cumin and chili. As it cooked, I stirred in the dried cilantro, and the kitchen was perfumed with the spices.
Somehow, everything fit into those small corn tortillas: the smooth, mashed beans with the sweetness and spice of tomato salsa; the corn, crunchy yet tender, with a mix of smoky spices; the crunch and snap of lettuce and fresh bell pepper alongside tender green onions; and the cheese, a glorious topping, as usual. Perhaps so many flavors and textures could be overwhelming, but here they blended well, with the beans and corn bonded by cumin, the garnishes adding contrast and mixing with the fillings without a problem.
Something I hadn’t expected, but which was a welcome surprise, was that the tacos, with their smokiness and spiciness, were warming on a chilly fall evening. Here was a dish that, by evoking summer, provided a respite from the cold. Perfect for October.
Tacos with Beans and Corn
Adapted from The Vegetarian Times
1 15-ounce can white beans, drained and rinsed
½ cup salsa
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 ½ teaspoons cumin
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 15-ounce can corn, drained (or 15 ounces frozen corn)
1 teaspoon chili powder
Dried cilantro, to taste
1 red bell pepper, sliced into thin strips
2 green onions, chopped
6-inch tortillas (flour or corn)
Spinach or lettuce leaves
Grated Jack cheese
- Combine beans, salsa, garlic, and 1 teaspoon cumin in a large skillet. Bring to a simmer over medium heat. Reduce heat and let cook for 5 minutes. Keep bean mixture warm on low heat.
- In a second large skillet, heat olive oil over medium heat. Combine corn, chili powder, and dried cilantro in the skillet. Cook for 5 minutes, stirring often. Add bell pepper strips and chopped green onion. Cook for 5 minutes, stirring often.
- Heat tortillas in the microwave or oven. Layer the beans, corn mixture, spinach, and cheese inside the tortillas.